It’s as if the sun, which is suddenly more visible in the sky, has an ally in the color of so many spring blooms.

On the fringe of the Nullarbor on Yalata land there are thousands of western myall acacia trees. Known to the Anangu as Kyatah, they are a traditional source of shelter and slow burning fuel.

Most of the grapes are sold to other Yarra Valley winemakers, and when the Oakleys decided to have part of the production vinified for the Acacia Ridge label, they and some other small vignerons set ...